Recognising that the best way to discover the cultural and historical attractions of Bournemouth, Christchurch and Poole is on foot, the BCP Council have put together a number of itineraries. Maps illustrated by local artists, with detailed information about the attractions, guide you on these six short walks.
Bournemouth
Bournemouth
Bournemouth
Bournemouth began to develop into a resort in the early 19th century, copying others on the south coast like Weymouth and Brighton. It was included in the 1841 Guide to The Spas of England as the perfect place for solving respiratory problems. It quickly became a destination for retirees and those looking for the health benefits of sea air.
Poole
Poole
Poole is much older – it became a busy port soon after the Norman Conquest and by the 19th century, most of its population worked at the harbour. But, like Bournemouth, the town’s beaches and countryside soon became a draw for tourists with the railway arriving in 1872. The quay still operated as normal, but the new arrivals visited Poole Pottery, took pleasure cruises and enjoyed the many pubs.
Christchurch
Christchurch
Christchurch Castle
Bournemouth’s other ancient neighbour, Christchurch, originated as an early 7th-century Saxon settlement at the lowest crossing points of the Avon and Stour. The harbour quickly became one of the most important in England—it was easily reached from the continent, and boats could travel up the river Avon all the way to Salisbury. It changed its name to Christchurch with the construction of the Priory in 1094.
Bournemouth Beach
Mudeford
All three towns are easily accessible by rail and a good bus service links each of them, around an hour apart. Armed with the new walking guides, and some stout shoes, I explored the trails. Poole is my starting point and I work my way eastwards through Bournemouth and Hengistbury Head to finish in Christchurch
Poole High Street
The Poole High Street Discovery Trail does exactly that – it takes you down this long street past 10 notable sites each with a connection to the town’s past. I start at Poole Museum, housed in a Victorian warehouse and now going through an extensive makeover. It reopens soon and focusses on Poole’s thriving maritime trade, from medieval times to its role in the D-Day landings. It’s set to become a destination in its own right.
Poole
Poole
Poole
The museum has also taken over Scaplens Court, one of Poole’s oldest surviving buildings dating back to the late 15th century. Originally a medieval merchant’s house, in the 1640s it was occupied by the Parliamentarian Roundheads during the English Civil War. I follow the trail up the High Street passing The Antelope Inn, established in the 1500s, the Corn Market and The London Hotel.
Scaplens Hall
Custom House
Guildhall
Another historic walk is The Poole Cockle Trail, winding through the historic Old Town. It also starts at the Poole Museum but then leads to the Quay, once the hub of maritime commerce and lined with historic pubs such as the Lord Nelson and the Jolly Sailor. Other sites include the Fish Shambles, where the fish market was held, the Custom House, dating back to the 18th century, and the medieval Guildhall.
Bournemouth
Bournemouth
Russell-Cotes
Russell-Cotes
The Bournemouth Cultural Trail takes in the architectural and historic landmarks that mark the town’s journey from humble beginnings to one of the UK’s most popular holiday haunts. I start at the Russell-Cotes Art Gallery & Museum which houses an immense treasure-trove of curios and paintings.
Russell-Cotes
Russell-Cotes
Russell-Cotes
Merton Russell-Cotes, a hotelier who made his money from the adjacent Royal Bath Hotel, built East Cliff Hall in 1901. It was designed to be a home with gallery space to display everything he’d collected on his world travels. The galleries are spectacular but the private rooms, now restored to their original magnificence, are also stunning.
Bournemouth
Bournemouth
Bournemouth
The Trail leads down to the sea and the iconic pier, built in 1880, before taking me through the listed Lower Gardens into the town centre. Historic department stores like Bobby’s and Beale’s tower above the greenery. Sumptuous hotels including The Norfolk Royale and The Royal Exeter bear witness to the tourist boom of the early 20th century.
Bournemouth
Bournemouth
Bournemouth
The Gervis Arcade, dating from 1866, features two rows of shops with many original elements, including stained glass windows, intricate floor tiles, and a glazed roof. I finish at St Peter’s Church with the grave of Mary Shelley, the famous author of Frankenstein and widow of the Romantic poet Percy Bysshe Shelley.
Bournemouth
Bournemouth
Bournemouth
Hengistbury Head
Hengistbury Head
East along the coast from Bournemouth, Hengistbury Head has been inhabited since the Stone Age with evidence of Bronze Age and Iron Age settlement. The archaeology includes ancient burial mounds and remnants of historic fortifications. The area is now a designated nature reserve and Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI), with over 500 plant species and numerous birds, including rare Skylarks.
Hengistbury Head
Hengistbury Head
Hengistbury Head
The Hengistbury Head Trail, a three mile round trip, offers a relatively easy walk with gentle inclines. I follow it through a variety of natural habitats, including heathland, grassland, freshwater ponds, and coastal cliffs. From the top of the Head there are breath-taking views of Christchurch Harbour, the Isle of Wight, and the Purbeck Hills.
Hengistbury Head
Hengistbury Head
Ironically, if Harry Gordon Selfridge, founder of the Selfridges department store, had had his way the nature reserve would not exist. He bought the land in 1919 with plans to build “the largest castle” on the world. Fortunately a combination of his gambling and the crash of 1929 meant his plans never came to fruition and he died penniless in 1947.
Christchurch
Christchurch Priory
I’ve already made out the tower of Christchurch Priory across the harbour from Hengistbury Head. This marks the start of the Christchurch Cultural Trail and the Priory is one of the best kept secrets in this part of the world. It’s larger than many famous English Cathedrals and is one of the longest churches in the country.
In 1094, a chief minister of William II, Ranulf Flambard, began to build on the site of an earlier church dating from 800 and it was completed by around 1150. Enlargement works continued through the next centuries and the tower was rebuilt in 1470. By 1529 the church looked very much as it does today.
Christchurch Priory
It was surrounded by monastic buildings including a large cloister but all were demolished during the dissolution of the monasteries. Fortunately, the church was spared, due to the wishes of the townsfolk, and this remarkable structure is renowned for its exquisite stained-glass windows and intricate wood carvings.
Red House Museum
Redhouse Museum
A short walk from the Priory takes me to the Red House Museum and Gardens. Housed in a former Georgian workhouse, this museum offers a fascinating glimpse into Christchurch’s past. From Roman artefacts to Victorian memorabilia, the exhibits cover centuries of local history.
Christchurch
Christchurgh
Continuing along the trail, I reach the ruins of Christchurch Castle and the adjacent Norman House. The 12th century motte-and-bailey castle, originally built to defend the town, was dismantled by Cromwell. The Norman House, built for the Lord of the Manor, is a rare example of Norman domestic architecture and was saved from demolition by the vicar in the late 18th century.
Christchurch
Christchurch
Christchurch
The final stop is Place Mill, a beautifully restored Anglo-Saxon watermill on the banks of the River Stour. Mentioned in the Domesday Book of 1087, its idyllic riverside location is the perfect to end my journey. I sit and watch the swans gracefully taking off and landing in the water in front of me. And, of course, I can’t resist a quintessential English bag of chips from the nearby café.
Factfile
GO: The South Western Railway runs from London to all three destinations.
INFO: The Explore BCP Project details six walking itineraries, all available to download. The Explore BCP Project is funded by the UK Government through its Shared Prosperity Fund.
The Poole Museum is scheduled to reopen in summer 2025.
Russell-Cotes Art Gallery and Museum is well worth a half day visit.
The Hengistbury Head Visitor Centre has information about the wildlife and archaeology of the area. It also has a restaurant.
Christchurch Priory has lunchtime organ recitals and hosts evening concerts.
STAY: The Marsham Court Hotel in Bournemouth has double rooms from £90 per room per night, some with sea views.
EAT: Nusara Thai Fire Kitchen in Christchurch has excellent Asian dishes.