If you consider yourself a sane, rational, sophisticated, and cultured person, a part of you may yearn to experience life in Finland; a country repeatedly praised for being the world’s most contented nation. Abundant in nature trails, as lovely seashore, great design and gastronomy, Helsinki makes for a perfect short break.
Certainly, there’s no better way to recharge your batteries than 48 hours in Helsinki, Finland’s waterfront capital city.
Fortress Life
Sea Fortress of Suomenlinna Helsinki
You may be in the capital of Finland, but offshore there’s a slice of Sweden in the form of the Unesco World Heritage Site Sea Fortress of Suomenlinna. Originally known as Sveaborg (Castle of the Swedes), it was built in 1748 by Sweden in an attempt to deter Russian expansion. It was renamed Suomenlinna (Castle of Finland) when the country became independent from Russia in 1918.
Comprised of eight islands, six of which are fortified, it’s a popular spot for locals to go for a picnic, many of whom are drawn to lovely out-of-the-way beaches.
There are several museums, the last surviving Finnish submarine, several artists’ studios, and a church that doubles as a lighthouse. In true Scandinavian style, the facilities are maintained by residents of the island’s minimum security penal colony, who take a pledge of public service.
Bathing and Steaming
In a short trip to Finland, there may not be time to head to the forests for a sauna amid the larches, but there are plenty of options within Helsinki itself. One of the best choices is the Allas Sea Pool, a marine spa oasis at the heart of the city. Steam away in one of the three saunas before plunging into the chilly filtered waters of the sea water pool. You’ll also be glad to know there are two warm water pools too, heated to 27°C.
In the winter, visitors to Allas Sea Pool can experience authentic ice swimming, while in the summer you’ll be delighted by open-air concerts. For post-sauna nourishment, consider making use of the Allas Wine and Dine restaurant, with different styles of dining on three levels of terrace, all with great views over the city and waters.
Scandi Design
Scandinavian design combines simplicity, high-quality craftsmanship, minimalism, and functionality. At Design Museum Helskinki, you’ll find out about Finnish classics such as the Nokia phone, Marimekko clothing, Aalto’s vase, Aarnio’s 1960s plastic ball chair, and even the Angry Birds video. A room is devoted to the 1900 Paris exhibition when Finnish design, art, and architecture burst onto the international scene. Further rooms explore contemporary movements and innovators, with the unifying theme summed up as “sophisticated cool”.
If you’re inspired by this, just around the corner is the sister museum, the Museum of Finnish Architecture. Then stroll around the numerous galleries, boutiques and furniture shops in the neighbourhood. Pick of the bunch are Artek 2nd Cycle, a vintage furniture shop, and Lemmettiv, a gallery for contemporary Finnish design. Perhaps then make your way to the excellent Finnish Museum of Photography, Europe’s oldest photographic museum.
Where to eat in Helsinki
Historic and iconic, the cosy and relaxed restaurant Wellamo has been welcoming diners to a quiet corner of Helsinki’s Katajanokka district since 1975. Brown and earthy tones make the vibe about as snug as you could wish for in the home of hygge, but it’s also charmingly romantic. Candles highlight the works by contemporary local artists, many of which are on sale for surprisingly affordable prices; seemingly more so when you’ve had a glass or two from the well-chosen wine list. If you fancy a beer, they brew their own.
The lunch menu changes daily, with the dishes following the seasons and availability from small Nordic producers. Diners love the mixture of Finnish, Russian, and French dishes, all enhanced by local herbs picked by the Wellamo team.
Stroll, Cycle, and Swim
With 131 km of shoreline within the city of Helsinki, it’s a picturesque and easy place to go exploring under your own steam. In the summer, grab one of the inexpensive city bikes from one of the numerous bike stations and head to the sands of Hietalahdenranta Beach, known to the locals as Hietsu. It’s the most popular swimming beach for locals and is a mecca for beach volleyball enthusiasts.
Central Park, Helsinki
If forests are more your thing, go inland to Keskuspuisto, Helsinki’s Central Park; a ten-kilometre-long, thousand-acre forest stretching northwards from the city centre.
The network of walking and cycling trails lead to an array of enticing opportunities and sights such as the Pirkkola Swimming Hall, the traditional Haltiala Farm, and the 1952 Summer Olympic venue Laakso Hippodrome.
If you’re here between May and September and returning from Central Park, head to Linnanmäki Amusement Park, a legendary Finnish leisure destination that first opened its rides in 1950. Where else in the world can you ride on a wooden rollercoaster?
Where to Stay
Adjacent to Helsinki’s central railway station and within walking distance of enough attractions to last you several weeks, the five-star NH Collection Helsinki Grand Hansa hotel is not just grand in name.
It combines two iconic heritage buildings: the Art Nouveau-style New Student House and Seuahuone, the city’s oldest continually running hotel. From its majestic entrance below imposing statues to its sumptuous communal areas, luxurious guest rooms, and elegant dining options, Grand Hansa is lavish and impressive.
Getting to Helsinki
Finnair flies direct to Helsinki from London Heathrow and Manchester. From London, there’s also a daily bus service with FlixBus.
More information
Helsinki’s official tourism website, MyHelsinki, provides a wealth of information and hundreds of ideas of interesting things to see and do. It’s an insight into how and why the combination of access to nature, celebration of heritage, good food, and enjoyment makes the Finns so happy.