Hotel Trattlerhof is perched at the very end of the alpine resort of Bad Kleinkirchheim (“BKK” for short). It is a pretty town in the Carinthian region of Austria that is popular with skiers in the winter and hikers in the summer.
The building location dates back to 1642, and started life as a farm estate. Later it became a guesthouse for weary travellers in need of a beer and some hot food after a long journey by horse and cart. Now a hotel, it has been run by the same family for five generations and has maintained its warm and welcoming atmosphere.
Trattlerhof is a certified environmental hotel and is committed to reducing its environmental impact. They have their own bioplant and there is no plastic packaging in the rooms.
Who for
The hotel is an excellent base for winter sports enthusiasts, as the nearest ski lift is just a six-minute walk. There is also a bus stop right by the hotel where you can hop on a free shuttle to the Kaiserburg gondola. The same bus will also take you to some of BKK’s fancy thermal spas, including Terme Römerbad.
Begoggled reindeer guard the entrance at Trattlerhof (c) Lucy Woods
Families will enjoy the cosy atmosphere and child-friendly spa area (under 15s must be accompanied by an adult). The hotel also hosts various alpine activities for adults and children including nature walks and tobogganing.
Accommodation
There are 60 rooms at Trattlerhof. Some are traditionally styled with plaid furnishings and red and green hues. All rooms are en suite and some contain a separate WC. As part of their commitment to the environment, there are no mini smellies, plastic shower caps and vanity kits. Instead, you can help yourself to the refillable shower gel that is affixed to the wall.
The new rooms at Trattlerhof are akin to Scandinavian saunas (c) Lucy Woods
The hotel has recently expanded and added a new wing. Unlike the old part of the hotel the rooms here are modern in design and comparable to a Scandinavian sauna. The walls, floors and furnishings are made of pine. The en suite bathrooms are large and modern, and have an excellent power shower.
Facilities
Trattlerhof has a spacious and comfortable salon with wooden beams on the ceiling and an old grand piano. The beautifully crafted heavy tables are made of wood rescued from a nearby farmhouse. Every afternoon guests can help themselves (free of charge) to a selection of soup, salads and home-made cakes served on the piano.
At the bar guests can choose from a selection of aperitifs, beer, wine and schnapps. One night a sweet, elderly gentleman played Sinatra songs on the piano. As with the rest of the hotel, the barman was the consummate host, always making sure we had plenty of water and nibbles to accompany our drinks.
The spa (c) Trattlerhof
The spa is large and luxurious, and was one of the highlights of my stay. Every guest is given a soft, fluffy bathrobe and a large tote bag and towel to use in the spa. The swimming pool is just big enough to swim lengths and is surrounded by glass walls overlooking the river and mountains. There’s also a hot tub, sauna, treatment room for massages and a relaxation room. The spa is open from 7am to 7pm.
Food and drink
Breakfast starts a 7am and there are plenty of hot and cold options to tuck into, including local cheeses, fresh bread, dried fruit and yogurt. A chef is on standby at the buffet to cook fried eggs and omelettes. There’s also a machine where you can make your own fresh carrot and apply juice, which is absolutely delicious.
At breakfast you can also choose your evening meal from set menu. There is always a choice of meat, fish and vegetarian dishes, and many of the ingredients are sourced from local farmers. My personal favourites included cuttlefish with black spaghetti and traditional beef broth with cheese dumpling.
Cuttlefish with black spaghetti (c) Lucy Woods
Don’t forget to make the most of the salad bar, which changes every evening and includes a huge selection of dressings and olive oils (we loved the pumpkin oil).
At dinner our waiter was always on hand to suggest drinks we might enjoy and there’s a good selection of affordable Austrian wines.
If you fancy going out for a meal one night, the hotel owns a restaurant, Trattlers Einkehr, which is nestled on the edge of the piste next to the Maibrunnbahn chairlift. The restaurant specialises in hot smoked meat and fish as well as pizzas and pasta dishes.
Is WiFi available
Yes, WiFi is free of charge and works best in the older rooms, reception area and restaurant. Connectivity was a bit of an issue in the new rooms, although I was able to use 4G if I stood on the balcony.
Room Rates
Prices start at €82pp per night in the winter and €74pp in summer, including half board, wellness programs, in-house sports facilities and activity programs.
Getting there
The quickest route to BKK is from London Gatwick to Klagenfurt Airport, which takes less than two hours. It is then just a 50-minute transfer to BKK from the airport via a series pretty Carinthian villages and towns.
BKK is also a 1.5 hour drive from Ljubljana and 2.5 hour drive from Salzburg.