Hiking and Biking around Whitby, Yorkshire, UK

277

It’s hard to miss the iconic ruin of Whitby Abbey, the 11th century Benedictine monastery, which dominates the skyline above the port. Indeed Bram Stoker was so impressed that he started writing his Dracula novel here back in 1890. My more modern adventures also begin and end here. I’m going to be hiking and biking in the North Yorkshire Moors National Park.

A new tourism initiative, Route YC, branding itself as “Yorkshire’s Ultimate road trip” allows you to create your own way of exploring 100 miles of glorious coastline. As well as the clifftop footpaths, they’ve just launched a network of 12 new cycling routes. Specially designed for all ages and abilities, they range from nine to 260 miles long. And, even better, you can hire e-bikes to let the chain take the strain.

I arrive in Whitby on a rainy summer’s day and spend the afternoon exploring the town. The town’s cobbled streets and charming alleys are lined with buildings that tell stories of its seafaring past. The house where explorer James Cook apprenticed is now a museum detailing his early life and voyages. And the harbour is still working with the swing bridge allowing access for tall ships, fishing vessels and yachts.

Cleveland Way Walk: Staithes to Whitby

Whitby is the last stop on the Cleveland Way before it finishes at Robin Hood’s Bay. I’ve walked this stretch before so I decide to take the bus north to the tiny fishing village of Staithes and hike all the way back. Fortunately the rain has stopped and narrow cobbled lanes lead down to the seafront.

There’s no time to linger so I start with a steep climb up to the clifftops.  The reward is stunning views back to the village, and then it’s fairly level. The remains of Port Mulgrave, once used to transport quarried ironstone to the furnaces on Tyneside, lie at the foot of Rosedale cliffs. From here it’s a gradual descent to the wide expanse of Runswick Bay.

The trail runs along the sandy beach before turning upwards into Claymoor Beck, after the rain, a rushing torrent. The stones are slippery but fortunately a handrail is there to provide support. Back on the clifftops, wide fields of corn dominate around Kettleness then there’s a steep descent through the woods into Overdale. Here the trackway of old Saltburn and Whitby railway provides easy walking to Sandsend.

True to its name, the wide sandy beach stretches all the way to Whitby with the abbey dominating on the horizon. Fortunately the tide is out so I’m able to follow the shore all the way to my destination. People are trying to make the best of the English summer and I pass swimmers shivering in the North Sea. Soon I’m at the West Pier lighthouse and make my way past the swing bridge to the town centre.

Route YC Adventure Weekender Bike Ride

This cycling route is designed to pack everything unique about the Yorkshire Coast into one long weekend. In total it’s 91 miles so Markus Stitz, the brains behind the routes, designs me a shorter version. He even lends me his own e-bike, a Tern Orox S12, so I can handle the tougher climbs.

I leave Whitby railway station and climb uphill before turning off onto the Cinder Track. This follows the route of the old railway, closed in 1965, and crosses the Esk Valley on the Larpool Viaduct. I then turn off to follow the river as it meanders through the countryside passing Ruswarp and then Sleights. From here there’s a steep climb, first on road then on a narrow gravel track up to Aislaby.

Now it’s relatively flat, with great views into the Esk Valley and moors further beyond. I could carry on but Markus has recommended I make a diversion to Grosmont Station. I lose all the height I’ve gained and cross the river and arrive at the station, built around 1846. The platform is crowded as this is the junction where the heritage North Yorkshire Moors Railway meets the main rail network.

The station is locked in time, painted and restored as it was in the 1950’s. It’s also where the locomotives are maintained and the sheds are located just beyond a brick tunnel built by George Stevenson in 1835. Within a few minutes I’m lucky to see a couple of steam trains meet, heading in opposite directions.

I leave the station and follow the Esk to Egton Bridge where there’s a steep climb up to Egton. Back on the tops, the wind is unrelenting, making it tough going as I work a loop over the moors. After a short stretch on the busy A171, I soon back on quiet roads through Ugthorpe, then Newholm and back to Whitby. It’s taken me four hours to do around 35 miles, and this is a great taster for the longer route.

If you fancy exploring other cycling routes in the region, there are several day trips that start in the Yorkshire coast towns of Scarborough, Filey, Bridlington, Hornsea and Withernsea, plus the North York Moors village of Grosmont. There’s also a touring route that runs all the way along the coast, starting at the ferry terminal in Hull northwards to Staithes.

Factfile

GO: Whitby is connected by train and bus from London.

INFO: Route YC has information about planning your adventure around the Yorkshire Coast.

Cleveland Way has details about this long distance path.

STAY: The Stables Whitby, just outside the town, makes a comfortable base for exploring and has excellent food.