Cyprus, the birthplace of Aphrodite is home to beautiful beaches, important archaeological sites and a rich and diverse gastronomy. Located at the crossroads between Europe and the Middle East, Cypriot cuisine is an exotic blend of Greek and Middle Eastern cultures, sprinkled with remnants of ancient civilisations such as indigenous Roman root vegetables or old Phoenician delicacies.
Centuries of knowledge have been passed down from generation to generation as I discovered on a gastronomy and wine tour of the island. I experienced not only a distinctive cuisine but also some unusual wines. These are my highlights.
Sample Blue Wine at Linos Winery
Blue Wine
Linos Winery, situated in the picturesque village of Omodos village in the Troodos Mountains has created Cyprus’ first ever Blue Wine. “Mediterranean Blu”, catches the colour of the Med in a bottle and is made from 99% Xynsteri and 1% pure grape juice. The grape juice is from both Alicante and Mataro grapes.
There are no artificial colours, the blue doesn’t come from as jokingly described by the owner, treading the grapes wearing blue socks but was created by accident. Its gorgeous and vibrant azure colour pigment is found within the skin of the red wine grape, anthocyanin. A gimmick maybe but this unique wine is refreshingly sweet, fruity and light at just 12.5% alcohol and is a fun souvenir to take home with you.
Sip Commandaria at Karsera Winery
Cyprus can proudly lay claim to the world’s oldest wine still in production, that of the delicious sweet dessert wine Commandaria. Thought to date back to 800 BC, references to the consumption of a wine named ‘Cypriot Nama’ are believed to have been Commandaria before it was given its current name during the Crusades of the 12th century.
It was thought that the wine had therapeutic qualities and it was widely used as a tonic. Richard the Lion Heart celebrated his capture of Cyprus and his marriage to Berengaria in Limassol with Commandaria, declaring it “the wine of kings and the king of wines”.
Bringing home a bottle of Commandaria wine means savouring a taste of Cypriot history with each sip. My Christmas tipple came from Karseras Winery in the village of Doros in the heart of the Commandaria region, also in the Troodos Mountains and just 25 km from Limassol. Wineries throughout the Troodos Mountains offer wine tastings.
Taste Zivania at Tsiakkas Winery
Mexico has tequila, Greece raki, Germany schnapps and Cyprus zivania. With an alcohol content of 40-99%, it is no surprise that the island’s national drink of Zivania is also referred to as ‘firewater’. The strong drink dates back to the 14th century when the island was under Venetian rule and is still made in the same traditional way today. Grape pomace (remains such as pulp, peel, stalks and seeds) is mixed with high-quality dry wines made from the indigenous grapes of Mavro (black) and Xynisteri (white), then distilled and mellowed for a long period. Distillation takes place in a cauldron (‘kazani’) with three different processes producing different qualities and intensity of the drink. The resulting liquid is clear and highly potent and can be drunk as an aperitif.
Tsiakkas Winery is one of the highest-altitude vineyards in Europe, located in Pelendri village. I enjoyed a wine tasting followed by a tasting of Zivania, a much-appreciated warming tonic in the cooler Troodos Mountain climate. Costas Tsiakkas established the winery in 1988 which he now runs with his wife Maria
Order a Brandy Sour
Zivania might be Cyprus’s national drink but Brandy Sour is the unofficial national cocktail created in the mountain village of Platres. Post World War Two Platres was a prominent holiday resort popular with both European and Middle-Eastern elite who were attracted by the cooler, fresher air and the beauty of the surrounding forest.
One of the resort’s frequent guests was King Farouk of Egypt, who occasionally loved to enjoy a drink. At one of his visits in August 1946, the King asked Stelios Sourmelis, the bartender of the Forest Park Hotel to make him a drink that would have alcohol but it wouldn’t show. The barman put together all his knowledge and experience in mixology and he created a drink that looked like ice-tea but was not. This was the birth of the Brandy Sour. The king loved it as did I. Brandy sour is made from locally produced brandy which is milder than Cognac or Armagnac, fresh Cyprus lemons or lemon cordial that give it both a sour and a slightly bitter taste, Angostura which adds intensity and moderates the acidity of the lemons, and soda water. You can order a Brandy sour at any hotel and bar in Cyprus.
Indulge in a Mezze
Synonymous with Cypriot cuisine is the ‘mezze’ – a variety of small dishes that combine to create a feast, and a good starting point to become acquainted with the local dishes, such as moreish dips, grilled meats, local, freshly caught fish, speciality cheeses and more unusual bites, all authentically prepared. It’s a traditional way to gather around a meal and has been a part of Cypriot culture for centuries.
What is included in the mezze varies widely in each restaurant, and largely depends on what is in season and whether you are ordering a meat mezze, fish mezze or a mixed mezze. Typically, there should be around 15-20 dishes, including the dips and bread, but some places may include up to 30 dishes. At To Katoi restaurant in the heart of Omodos, a particularly good mezze included a somewhat unusual take on the standard moussaka. The chef had painstakingly created individual circular mini moussakas.
Must try traditional cured meats
Often included within a mezze, Cyprus’s most popular cold cut, Lountza Krasati is another ultimate Cypriot flavour. It is produced by marinating pork tenderloin in red wine. The spicy village sausage known as Loukaniko is cured in a similar fashion as Lountza and acquires it distinct taste from red wine and spices such as black pepper, dry coriander seeds and cumin. My gastronomic tour included a visit to Kafkalia, a family business in the village of Agros that’s been smoking meat in the traditional way since 1978.
The tasting included tsamerella, goat meat with salt and oregano, an acquired taste but the pork loin was delicious. When vacuum-packed, the meat has a long shelf life and makes the perfect taste of Cyprus to take back with you to enjoy at home.
Savour a ‘Spoon Sweet’
Glyka tou koutaliou (sweets) – courtesy Cyprus Deputy Ministry of Tourism
Halfway through my tour, I had enough products and sweet treats to make up the most mouth-watering hamper, particularly those gathered at Nikis Traditional Sweets in Argos. Niki is famous for her “Spoon Sweets”. The traditional glyka ‘spoon sweets’ are candied preserves that are typically served on a small spoon and offered to guests as a symbol of hospitality, always with a glass of cold water.
Almost any fruit, vegetable, nut or peel can be preserved, and the sweets are often flavoured with vanilla, cinnamon or pelargonium (scented geranium leaves). The more common sweets are made from figs, cherries, watermelon rind and citrus peel, walnuts, apricots, marrows, grapes, bergamot or almond stuffed baby aubergines.
In more traditional times, spoon sweets were given as wedding favours, whereby the guests would eat the sweet directly from the spoon, which was then washed for the next well-wisher. Almost every Cypriot home had specially-made delicate serving dishes and tiny silver forks and spoons with which they serve the sweets to their guests. In today’s modern Cypriot society, it is more common to buy a jar, and Nikki Sweets has over 90 flavours.
Buy some rose products
The Tsolakis family chose the soil-rich region of Agros village, with its cool, healthy climate, at an altitude of 900-1100m above sea level, to plant its famous roses. The ‘Rosa Damascena” rose has been cultivated in this region for the past 70 years. Over the years the family has produced a complete range of products for the face and body but also rose liqueur, organic rose tea, rose jam, rose vinegar and rose chocolates. Everything is of course pink, colour of the Rosa Damascena. Agros village produces annually about 20 tons of roses and the locals celebrate their star produce with the Rose Festival, annually held in May.
Make the traditional Soutzoukos sweet
Soujioukos c.Cyprus Deputy Ministry of Tourism
Soutzoukos is a traditional, chewy sweet made from grape juice that has a unique appearance (it looks similar to a candle), and is popular at traditional festivals. The sweet is made using the surplus of grapes after the grape harvest, which is why it is commonly made in the wine producing villages of the Troodos.
Casale Panayiotis a luxury hotel and spa retreat that consists of some traditional lovingly restored houses located through Kalopanayiotis village in the Troodos Mountains offers Soutzoukos workshops and it was where I had a go in making the traditional sweet.
To make Soutzoukos, the hot mixture known as ‘moustalevria’ (a combination of the Greek words ‘must’ and ‘flour’) is used. Almonds (and sometimes walnuts) are dipped into water to soften them and then threaded like necklaces onto strings of two to three metres in length. They are dipped into the hot mixture until completely covered, and then hung to dry for a few hours. This dipping process is repeated three to five times over the course of hours or days until the desired thickness is achieved (approximately one inch in diameter). It takes five to six days for the Soutzoukos to dry and it can then be stored for months. When served, it is chopped into slices with a nutty centre and a chewy texture, often as an accompaniment to zivania.
Become a beekeeper for the day
I ended my tour by donning a beekeeper’s protection suit and became a beekeeper for the day. At Ecophysis Bee and Nature Center in the mountainous Larnaca region, I inspected the hives, spotted the Queen Bee, observed the bee workers at work and acquired yet another sweet treat to take home.
Cyprus is a good place to arrive hungry as the hospitality and portions are legendary and as I found out a big gastronomic adventure awaits.
FACT FILE
More info: Visit Cyrprus website
STAY:
https://www.petitpalais.com.cy/ in Platres
https://www.casalepanayiotis.com/ in Kalapanayiotis
https://amathusresidences.com/ in Limassol
https://www.radissonhotels.com/en-us/hotels/radisson-blu-larnaca in Larnaca