Accra, the capital of Ghana sits on the Atlantic coast of West Africa. It was in 1877 when Accra became the capital of the British Gold Coast colony and in 1957 when Ghana, the first African country south of the Sahara, achieved independence from colonial rule.
Today Accra is a a melting pot of cultures with colourful, bustling streets and head-perched baskets of pots and pans everywhere. The architecture reflects its colonial history, with modern skyscrapers alongside 17th-century forts and castles. A day’s tour of this city will immerse you in its history and a thriving culture.
A day in Accra
First head to Jamestown, one of the oldest, historic and poorest suburbs of Accra. Walk through the labyrinth of streets and alleyways to see how the locals live; children playing alongside goats searching for food, washing draped over rickety stools and hairdressing outside.
A heavy smell of smoking fish lingers, the sound of music blares from stereo players on the uneven steps while inspired youths use the community boxing ring in the hope to follow Ghana’s two-time champion, Azumah Nelson (1980-90).
This densely populated, traditional Ga fishing community demonstrates the strength of its intense community spirit. Within this area is Ussher Fort which started out as a trading lodge, was made into a Fort in 1649 during the dark and brutal era of the transatlantic slave trade and is now a UNESCO World Heritage. Other historical sites include Fort James and Jamestown Lighthouse.
Jamestown is also the best place to taste the basic dishes of the Ga people who are known for their corn dough eaten with fresh-ground hot pepper and okra soup. And as a coastal location, there is fresh seafood such as shrimps, octopus and fried fish from street stalls.
A short drive away is the enclosed flame of African liberation which was lit by Kwame Nkrumah in 1961 and takes centre stage in Independence Square. Update your knowledge at the National Museum which has three primary collection areas; archaeology, ethnography, and art, which weave together Ghana’s rich cultural history.
Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park c. Ashanti African Tours
Save time for Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park situated in the old British Polo grounds. This is the final resting place of Ghana’s founder. The impressive building contains Nkrumah’s mausoleum as well as a museum charting his life. Its unique design is meant to represent an upside-down sword which in the Akan culture is a symbol of peace. The mausoleum is clad from top to bottom in Italian marble, with a black star at its apex to symbolize unity while the interior is made in marble flooring. This is a peaceful setting of symbolic statues and water around the mausoleum.
Busy and colourful, noisy and pushy, Makola Market is the city’s vast bazaar where you will find almost everything for sale. Traditional cloth and glittery jewellery, herbal remedies and fruits piled high to mobiles phone to TVs and sound systems. It’s entertaining and bewildering with a sprawl of racks and shelves and clothes-filled alleys lead to dead-ends and plastic buckets fill corners full of odds and ends. It’s like an open-air jumble market occupying several blocks with vendors desperate to sell their wares.
New Accra is easily identified by its modern buildings, shaped from the county’s rich natural resources and huge foreign investments. Within this area is the national theatre, World Trade Centre and the UN Memorial.
And there’s Oxford Street, popular with expats and shaded by coconut trees. Here there are lively bars, fast food chains and shops such as a bread boutique. Bead bags and bikini sets decorate the side streets while toy dolls and trainers are laid out on concrete spaces as busy traffic, and horns buzzing rush past.
Fantasy Coffins, Accra, Ghana
One unique must-see has to be the bizarre Fantasy Coffins in Teshie. Laid out on display are rectangular boxes that look more like art pieces than coffins. The decorated coffins represent the occupation of the deceased, or something that was important to them, ranging from cars and cigarette packets to phone and beer bottles! The coffin maker showed me a Ghana plane built for a pilot and a camera created a photographer.
TOP Tips:
- March and April are the hottest months in Accra at 45 degrees while December averages 34 degrees.
- Accra’s chronic traffic means that journeys can take much longer.
- Many bars do not accept card payments so it’s advisable to take cash.
Photos provided by |Ashanti African Tours.
Book a tour: Ashanti African Tours offers several itineraries in and around Accra for solo travellers, families and groups. . www.ashantiafricantours.com ([email protected]).