I invariably choose the window seat on a flight to enjoy the approach of land during the descent. Yet on a recent flight to Aruba, I felt cheated. This tiny Dutch country is a mere 20 miles long and eight miles wide, and what I could see was a peek-a-boo dance of the coastline and the vast South Caribbean Sea that surrounds this smudge of land in turquoise blue. Its closest neighbours are Curaçao and Venezuela 50 and 18 miles away respectively.
It all came right though once on land. Aruba has glorious white sandy beaches that some say are the best in the Caribbean, a the Wind Creek Marina near the cruise terminal where iguanas flit around the water’s edge and pelicans flirt with fishermen hoping for a fishy treat.
Aruba became autonomous of the Kingdom of the Netherlands in the 1980s. Initially, the oil factories were the source of income but when they closed the government turned to tourism by marketing its sandy wares, hot sunny days, and the glorious breeze that tempers the heat and scuppers mosquitoes. Holidaymakers flocked as quickly as the resorts and timeshares appeared.
Aruba’s defining feature is the easy vibe. Aruba has a population of 110,000, a mash-up of 110 nationalities, all Dutch citizens. They are as warm as Aruba’s 365 days of sunshine and welcoming tourists is encouraged at school.
Paula Ochoa from Aruba Tourism told me “We are taught Dutch, English, Spanish and the local dialect Papiamento from nursery so that we can communicate with tourists and holidaymakers.”
Aruba has earned the moniker – One Happy Island. For many, it’s the beaches, the best being Palm, Eagle and Baby Beach yet there is a host of charming and adventurous activities to do when you can tear away from the beach.
A tour of Oranjestad, the capital of Aruba
On the southwestern coast of Aruba is its compact capital, Oranjestad (Orange City) named after King William I of the Netherlands. It is bright and colourful with colonial architecture dressed in pastel hues and quaint churches of various denominations acting as landmarks.
Sights and shopping are mainly by the marina, especially on L.G. Smith Boulevard. Nearby is 18th-century Fort Zoutman and the Willem III Tower, formerly a lighthouse, the Historical Museum and the Archaeological Museum displays.
Every so often a Blue Horse statue appears, an installation of eight created by Aruban artist Osaira Muyale. They represent strength, nobility, grace, beauty and freedom and talk of the collaboration in the 1700s during Aruba’s horse trading industry. The story goes that the first horses jumped from the ship deck into the Caribbean Ocean to Aruban Bay ‘Paardenbaai “ – Horse Bay.
Bushiribana Gold Mill Ruins
This pile of gabrro stones is what is left of the sea facing Bushiribana Gold Mill Ruins built by the Aruba Island Gold Mining Company in 1873 on the rugged northern shore of Aruba. It stands as a monument to the gold rush of the 19th century. It is fun to climb and enjoy the ocean view from the top. It is also the meeting point for horse and jeep tours so if you are on one of those you will get to see it anyway.
Nearby, is the Natural Bridge created naturally by the lashing of the sea against limestone cliffs. Before it collapsed in 2005 it was the largest. There are others to see including Baby Bridge. Further towards the coast is a new cave pool to explore. A ladder takes you down to the pool and makes for a fresh dip within the cave.
Chill at the Butterfly farm
Perhaps one of the most charming places to visit is the Butterfly Farm. It is close to Palm Beach – you could combine the beach with a delightfully otherworldly experience in a quiet, tropical environment.
Start with a quick edu-tour to learn about the fascinating cycle life of 35,000 butterflies fluttering around and why some are tropical and get their food from the vegetation and others drink from fruit.
Address: Irausquin Blvd, Noord, Aruba
Donkey Sanctuary
Donkey Sanctuary, Aruba
These gentle creatures were not supposed to be in Aruba. The Spanish imported them from Africa in the 1500s to transport people and goods. Then came the car and the donkey was abandoned to roam the streets, often causing chaos on the roads. This donkey sanctuary rounded them up to offer a haven. Here you can mingle with them, feed them and, if your heart calls, even adopt one.
Address: Seroe Alejandro 6, Savaneta
Rum and Wine tasting at Alto Vista
It’s a challenge to grow grapes in Aruba, let alone produce good wine. Yet at Alto Vista Winery, owner David Kock, has done just that in Aruba’s first and only boutique winery. Less than a decade ago he planted seedlings on barren land and grows four types of grapes, two white and two red: a chenin blanc from South Africa, a French Colambard, a syrah and a Spanish tempranillo producing 8,000 bottles per year.
Vineyard, Aruba
It’s a three-minute hike over a track straddled by cactus plants to the vineyard where you can walk amid the vines. There’s also a rum distillery, a quaint yellow-painted building amid a field of sugar cane plantation. This is where they extract sugar cane juice, distil, ferment it and finally age it in former Jack Daniels whisky barrels to produce Red Star Rum. You get to taste this in their “tasting loft” neat, or as a cocktail.
The climax is an entertaining wine and cheese tasting in a room with floor-to-ceiling windows so you can enjoy the view while sommelier Hubert educates your palate.
Address: Alto Vista ZN, Oranjestad, Aruba
Murals of San Nicolas
There is a burgeoning art scene in Aruba, including 75 murals in San Nicolas. This former red light district has been transformed by pioneer Tito Bolivar, a man inspired by murals in Colombia. Within a few years San Nicolas has become a world-famous Art District.
Street art, San Nicolas
Street art, San Nicolas
Street art, San Nicolas
Street art, San Nicolas
Street Art, San Nicolas
Tito invited artists from Portugal, Spain, The Netherlands, Aruba, Curacao, the Czech Republic, Argentina, Mexico, Chile, Brazil, and Greece who created a cultural show through art. Get there in September 6-8 for the Aruba Art Fair, or throughout the rest of the year, you can join a 2-hour tour of these incredible murals and visit the gallery SPACE21.art.
Address: B v/d Veen Zeppenfeldstraat 6. [email protected]
Learn about Aloe Vera
Aruba’s number one export product is Aloe Vera. Aruba’s desert-like environment intensifies the aloe plant’s natural healing qualities and produces the earth’s most potent Aloe Vera Gel. Aruba Aloe is one of the few Aloe companies in the world, that grows, harvests, and processes its own Aloe on-site. They have workshops so you can make your own aloe vera scrub. It’s fun to extract this sticky, jelly-like substance from its fish-shaped leaf and to add coconut, sugar and chocolate to take away.
Address Pitastraat 115, Aruba
Arikok National Park
Arikok National Park, named after its second tallest hill, Arikok (185m (606ft) was formed by volcanic activity and eroding limestone.
Arikok National Park spreads over 7,900 acres of incredible natural landscape and makes up 20 per cent of the island so why not visit? Grab your walking shoes for the rough terrain and explore the caves especially the dual-chambered Quadirikiri Cave, and a swimming costume for a dip in the natural pool. Of course, you can visit independently, but best to join a jeep tour and let someone else deal with the bumpy driving.
Sail on a catamaran cruise
If watching a sunset while on the water captures your imagination, then a tour on The Pelican catamaran will give that to you. It’s great for all the family and includes snacks and an open bar. Or sail during the day and for an opportunity to snorkel and visit the Antilla World War II shipwreck.
More information: The Pelican
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Getting to Aruba
There are direct flights from all over North America to Aruba’s Queen Beatrix International Airport. British Airways has recently started a direct flight from London Heathrow to Aruba.
PACKAGE: TUI offers package holidays from the UK from £1467pp (Bed & Breakfast). Find out more here.